Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
